There are no recipes for quail or anything else in "Why Italians Love to Talk About Food" ($35, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 449 pages), but anyone with a strong passion for Italian food will find it indispensable. It's like an encyclopedia compiled and penned by a seriously gifted writer, in this case Elena Kostioukovitch. Infused throughout is Kostioukovitch's passion for Italy and its wide-ranging cuisine; you could even call it amore.